Well fed and happy? Yeah Siam…
Posted by John in August's Magazine
When I was a young man, before the World Wide Web, it was generally accepted that the world’s finest cuisines were ranked according to a definitive hierarchy – 1st French, 2nd Italian, 3rd Chinese, and so on. But now, nothing’s definitive and everyone with access to a computer has an opinion, not that that’s a bad thing. It prompts interest, debate, knowledge sharing and, best of all, experimentation.
One blog I read adjudged Thai cuisine as 8th best in the world, on another it was rated 5th. Of course the topic is so subjective as to be near meaningless, but you’ll have read this column before…
One commenter on a blog (which rated French food as no.1) railed that French cuisine originated ‘from masking the taste of rotten food – it is gross, lamely flavoured and the portions suck, just like the French’ was his (I suspect) American take on things. I tend toward more measured views but I must say that there are times when only Thai food will hit the spot. It’s a fantastic amalgam of influences from around Asia and, for me, strikes an excellent balance between the flavoursome and aromatic and spicy foods from that part of the world.
Having visited a few parts of Asia, I would also venture that the food in Thailand is closer to the Thai offerings we are served up in the UK than those purporting to be from China, India, etc., which are always very different in their home countries. So don’t listen to Gordon Ramsay when he states that you can’t get traditional or authentic Thai food in the UK, he’s a twat, and I bet he’s never been to the Port of Siam.
The Port (still your beating heart…not the Port – Ed) has been serving fine fare from its tiny space on Pier Place for over a year now, but it somehow managed to stay off my radar – despite friends telling me how good it was and that I really must go – until a couple of months ago. It is now firmly on it and yes, you were all right, so you can stop reminding me, and gloating, now.
The menu has a mix of traditional Thai fare – Green Curry, Yum Plaa Muuk, etc., but becomes more interesting with its list of ‘contemporary’ dishes. The last time we were there we tried the sea bass fillets with mashed potatoes and, done contemporary Thai-style, it was superb.
This time, we kicked off with a more traditional mixed tempura @ £7.85 and Thai Fish Cakes @ £5.95. The tempura had prawn, squid and green bean and was light and full of flavour. Leither readers as a breed are well-travelled, well-read and well-versed in the culinary arts, so you won’t need me to tell you that Thai fish cakes are often terrible, rubbery, tooth-resisting depositaries for the previous day’s leftovers: these were not. They were splendid – the best Thai fish cakes I’ve eaten in the UK.
For mains we stuck to the traditional and had prawn green curry @ £11.95 and the wonderfully entitled Pad Chaa Krapao @ £11.50, accompanied by a coconut rice @ £2.75 and egg noodles @ £3.50. Both were fresh, well textured and excellent. You’ll make up your own mind about these prices but to mine, the quality was so good as to render them great value for money.
I don’t think I’ve ever had a Thai pudding before because I tend to think that Asian food is not about dessert – indeed most Thais finish their meals with a simple piece of fresh fruit, and that’s probably your best bet, because I wasn’t overly enamoured of what we had.
A dish called Thai Rice Pearls, which is described on the menu as weird and wonderful, rice as you’ve never seen it, comes in coconut milk soup with pandamus ice cream and was actually quite nice, but The Pudding, which is black rice with coconut cream, fruit and cinnamon ice cream, was only half-eaten because it wasn’t great. Both are £4.75. A food critic who writes for a proper periodical, and is far more qualified than I, recently opined that dessert is a course that you eat because it is there. He may have had Asian food in mind when penning this witticism.
Port of Siam used to be a BYO but is now licensed. The wine list, though quite short, is well judged and very well priced. The house white is under £12. We had a very nice Chenin Blanc @ £13.50 which had a lovely herbaceous edge, a hint of spice and enough acidity to cut through the rich Thai Green Curry.
Continuing on the booze front, we didn’t venture out of Leith for our pre and post-prandials, with Nobles Bar setting us up nicely with their Black Isle Red Kite and Big John in the Shore Bar welcoming us Royally, as ever, with his wonderful, strong coffee and even stronger whiskies to round things off. All in all, marvellous.
Port of Siam
3 Pier Place Newhaven
0131 467 8628
portofsiam.com
NB. The author takes no responsibility for the title of this article, which was suggested by Mrs Karen Holmes of North Leith, who thought it amusing.