John Holmes gets his trendy suits into a review about Italian food… Edinburgh has loads of Italian restaurants, most of them crap. Osteria di Domenico is one of the good ones. It was previously owned by a guy who used to sell me suits from a trendy shop on Rose Street in the 1970s, but that’s another story, and he’s gone now. These days it’s run by husband and wife team, Stefano and Dellita, son-in-law and daughter of the previous owner, Michael, who sold-up because he was unwell. Stefano was running La Favorita and decided to take the plunge and buy the place. I was glad to hear from Stefano that Michael is well again – look after yourself, old boy!

And Michael can relax because his bâton has been grasped by safe hands. Domenico’s now features more fish and fewer pasta dishes, appears more ambitious than before, but aims not too high, and delivers admirably. Starters were cauliflower and blue cheese soup (£3.50), which was an uncharacteristically small portion, tasting of something other than cauliflower, but pleasant enough; and homemade fishcakes with salad and tartar sauce (£6.50, or £4.50 for one) which were excellent, with a light and crisp coating and fresh, satisfying interior. Mains were half North Berwick Lobster, prawns, clams, mussels, squid, chilli, fresh tomatoes and garlic with linguini pasta (£16.50, or £12.50 without lobster) and mixed seafood Provinciale (£15.50). Both were superb, with the latter a more fish stew/less soupy version of the Provencal fish soup our inestimable Editor-in-Chief used to dish up in the King’s Wark all those years ago. It was full of meaty chunks of tasty fish, prawns, etc., and I almost licked the plate clean.

John is the author of 11 articles including 'Review: di Domenico’s Leith' from October's Leither

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Homemade tiramisu (£4.95) was very good, and whoever’s at home clearly likes their Baileys and Tia Maria! Is this a Domenico’s exclusive? Purists might object; I approve. Our three scoops was Di Rollo’s vanilla (£3.95). We have strong opinions of ice cream, and whilst this is not Luca’s, or quite the stuff from the wee place beside the bar in the piazza near the sea wall in Alghero, it too was fine.

Domenico’s is a warm, welcoming, deservedly popular neighbourhood bistro. Go try.

Bill for two: £73.20 (cheaper lunch menu available)
Score: 16/20
Osteria Domenico: 30 Sandport Street T: 0131 467 7266
Open: Sun – Thurs 12pm to 10pm. Fri – Sat 12pm to 10.30pm